The milling process
Logs
You need logs. If you have a pile of logs sitting in your paddock or backyard, you've had a tree felled or you've got standing trees that you are thinking could be useful then you're off to a good start.
If your logs are still standing as trees then they will need to be felled by a professional arborist.
Are they mill worthy?
Any log can be milled, it just depends on what its use will be.
Generally 350-400mm diameter is the minimum log size that is suited for milling. A good log for structural timber should be straight and have no branches. If it's slabs, furniture timber or flooring/decking you're after, branches are of less concern.
Species also plays a part, as each species has its strengths and weaknesses suited to different applications. If you're unsure send through some photos and we can help to identify the species and quality of your logs.
Dimensions and sizes
Have a cut list ready of the timber you require
Quantity / Thickness x Width x Length
e.g. 10 / 150mm x 50mm x 3.2M
Site & set up
The Lucas mill can be set up on almost any site however a reasonably flat area (20 degrees max slope) is needed with a footprint of 6.5M x 3M. Our mill is towed to site on a trailer and takes around 20 minutes to set up.
Moving logs and tailing out
Our crane truck is used to load logs onto the mill and to transport timber. However your own machinery eg. tractor, excavator, etc is a welcome help.
Tailing out is the procedure of removing sawn timber from the mill as it is milled and stacking it neatly. You are welcome to tail out as this will reduce the labour cost. We are also more than happy to do this for you and often do.
Milling
The mill is run by a 30 HP petrol engine so the noise is about as loud as a ride on mower. Sawdust is directed through a chute onto the ground next to the mill. The general Timber recovery rate from a log is 50-60%
meaning 40-50% of the log will be waste material. The waste material will be neatly stacked which can than be used for firewood etc.
Stacked stickered and Strapped
The milled timber will be neatly stacked and stickered (small strips of timber evenly spaced between each board for air flow) and strapped with metal strapping to contain any movement through the drying process. It is then recommended that the timber be covered from the elements via sheets of roofing iron or something similar. You are welcome to stack sticker and strap the timber when tailing out to bring down labour costs.
Drying
There is a great deal of information out there when it comes to drying/seasoning timber which can seem a little overwhelming. A couple simple tips are: Keep it dry. Timber that consistently gets wet then dry then wet etc will want to warp and move. Store it somewhere with good air flow. Good airflow will help the moisture escape from the wood evenly. lastly, store it on as flat a surface as possible (a flat patch of grass or ground is fine.) Green timber is malleable and will distort in shape if not stored correctly.
Green Vs Seasoned
Alot of people are unaware that using green (unseasoned) timber is perfectly fine and has been done for centuries and is still done today. Most timber, especially large members are sold as "GOS" which stands for green off saw. This timber is used in construction and framing as the shrinkage rates are so little they do not affect the structure. Seasoning, however is essential for timber that is to be used for furniture and joinery as small movement in the timber can drastically effect the appearance and function in these applications.